About day four of our Croatian adventure, our ship captain Matko said “You know, I’d like to take you guys to a place where I spent my childhood. Sort of a second home.”
When you’re in close quarters, you really do learn a lot about people. Fortunately none of us had killed each other but we also had a Croatian for ballast. With Matko, he had a special set of people skills a ship captain would need to have. Matko had ceased being a ship captain and became our friend. And it wasn’t hard: he was quite charming and disarming but also honest.
Matko started to share with us his viewpoint of the war. Being a kid himself, he was playing with friends one day when the Serbians roll up outside of Dubrovnik with their large cannons and tanks. He thought it was just a military exercise until planes started bombing the city that night. When the planes stopped the cannons started. The shelling continued for nearly a day before the city finally surrendered.
From there, madness that could only be brought by war ensued. The Serbians saw fit, for some reason, to poison the city’s water supply as well. Before the word got out, Matko’s father had drank some of this water requiring 3 feet of his intestine to be removed.
Being American, we’re lucky to have never experienced war being brought to our shores. Geographically, that would be hard to do. But when your immediate neighbor has more military might, and no wisdom, it’s not hard to imagine jealousy would follow and the age-old battle for territory would ensue.
At this point in the story, Matko took a long hit off his cigarette and stared off into the mountains. His family fled Dubrovnik. The only way to evade the snipers hiding in the mountains was to drive fast, with no headlights, down the roads that were completely engulfed in the blackness of night. Once they had made it safely away from the city, their lives returned to a semi-normal state until the Serbians were forced out. Then came the rebuilding.
The entrepreneurial spirit and strong work-ethic turns this tiny country into a cash machine. Since the only tax is a 22% VAT tax, the entire country pretty much runs on a cash-system. Pay cash, no receipts, no tax. This makes Croatia’s neighbors slightly jealous. And after each invasion, the people find themselves once again rebuilding their country and their lives.
Matko’s story is just one of thousands, told by the survivors of the war. People who can remember and were affected often have a sad look in their eyes, even though the war ended nearly a decade ago. But life must go on and each recognizes they can wallow in sadness or improve their situation. Fortunately most have elected to improve their situation such as our boat captain.